Day 67 Prachuap Khiri Khan to between Bang Saphan Yai and Bang Saphan Noi



This was not planned. I planned to have a nice bungalow on the beach and to take a late afternoon swim not sit in a resort besides the motorway and listen to trucks passing.


119km/8hrs. Flat but some small ups that made it interesting. Highway a duel carriage way rather than motorway and tree shaded for lot fo the way. Also managed to get on the coast road and then lost it again. More on that later.


Day started well with a visit to the Ao Manao air force beach just south of town (not 6km as LP says). Take a bike as best beach is a few km past the check point. I signed in but then left at the south exit which did not seem to be manned. I doubt they will bother looking for me. Good beach, food, drink and accommodation available. Then found myself on the coast road for the first time and kept on it most of the way. Quiet, often close to beach and tree lined. Bit further is an aquarium which I didn’t visit.


Tip: dont park your bike on a red ant nest.


Saw a wat on a hill so to remind myself what it was like climbing a hill I visited it. A Disney array of turrets and spires with all the glitz but still impressive.


Lot of resorts on the beach road but more the western idea of resort rather than the simple places I have stayed in. These are plush with lots of style. Took a few dead ends but only lost a few km. Was happily on the coast road until Bang Saphan where I stopped for noodles and water. Always better to arrive fed and watered especially if the accommodation has a dog. Makes one more peaceful. I must have taken a wrong turning out of Saphan, on the way to some nice beach accommodation, because I ended up on the main highway again. Not so many resorts now. Nearly stopped at one resort but fumbling in my pocket for a stone, peddling hard and growling at an attacking dog made it impossible. Eventually found one as it was getting dark. Basic room with AC for 400B take it or leave it. I tried to ride down the wrong way on the hard shoulder but trucks coming straight at me and a pack of dogs changed my mind. But the owner had an old frozen packet of fried rice and no beer. It was horrible. The sink has a dranage hole at the side (see photo) so one can wash ones feet at the same time as ones hands.


Tip: don’t wear shoes when washing ones feet.


Not the way I intended to end the day but it was the most interesting days riding for a while.

beach near Phecuap Khiri Khan

beach near Phecuap Khiri Khan


fishing village in contrast to the resorts. Real holiday resorts


happy cyclist on beautiful beach road unaware he was going to get lost


fishing boats


Buddhist Disney land


bigger fishing boats.


railway station

IMG_1127 IMG_1128 IMG_1129 IMG_1131 IMG_1132 IMG_1145 IMG_1146 IMG_1139 IMG_1140 IMG_1159 IMG_1160 IMG_1161 IMG_1162 IMG_1163

you can wash your feet as you wash your hands

you can wash your feet as you wash your hands


resort some where on highway south



Day 66 Prachuap Khiri Khan


Food poisoning last night meant waking up late and  feeling a bit weak.

While Hua Hin has made a lot of nothing much Prachuap has not made much of what it has and it has more. It is a nice small town with attractive beach and coast line.

Went to veg cafe next door for brunch and met 70 year old hyperactive American who had escaped twice from a Colombian prison in 1970s. He has written a book on his drug smuggling, prison and escape. One does not tend to meet drug smugglers and prison escapees in the local cafe at home.

IMG_1120 IMG_1121 IMG_1122


town at night

Thought, unwisely, to adjust the gears to stop some slight rubbing I should have learnt from previous experience at anything even remotely mechanical. An hour later the gears did not work at all but after watching a few utube videos on how to adjust gears and another hour I managed to get the gears back to as they were previously. and went out to celebrate. I met two more English teachers. I wonder how many are in Thailand. One was from Ireland and the other from Yorkshire but with a few, Sorry, what was that’ I understood most of what they said. Paul told me about the Rohingya extremist coming from Burma to southern Thailand and causing problems. There are not any as far as I know! Barry had just build a house with three bed rooms for £25,000 which was lucky as he and his wife were not getting on.

Later watched a Frenchman try and teach a Chinese girl English. ‘ I have name

Day 65 Hua Hin to Prachuap Kiri Khan. Rain and Vomiting.

96km/6hrs. As usual hard shoulder of flat boring road but better than western motorways as not separated from life of places passing through and can easily stop. Again could not find small roads which apparently do exist as an alternative to motorway. Didn’t want to spend an hour driving along a road to find it a dead-end and having to return the same way.
Started late as an Aussie gave me the ‘Top 100 Albums of all time’ to copy which took 1.5 hours. A Nepali works at the guest house and a Filipino is looking for work there. Salary is 9,000B/$300 a month with 6 days on and two off and 8 hour days. Seems that Thailand is at the stage economically when those from other countries are looking for work here.
Rained twice today. Could see the dark clouds looming and waiting. At the beginning the first down pour I ducked into a small cafe with friendly staff and good food. I tried to leave after the red curry but then they brought out a newly baked layered cream cake with blueberry sauce so I stayed a bit longer. Three solders sat for all this time on a table skimming through smart phone messages. When I left the rain had finished and I felt slightly noxious not knowing what was to come.
I tried to out run the darkening clouds but 1.5km before my destination the sky opened. If I hadn’t had that freshly baked layered cream cake I would have arrived before the storm. I tried riding through it but visibility became so bad that I couldn’t see the road properly and more seriously trucks would not be able to see me. I sheltered in a small closed restaurant and waited.
Maggie’s Homestay is the sort of place the guests run themselves to a great extent. The cheapest rooms (150B) are just a row of plywood rooms with netting on the top of walls for ventilation and a bed. Maggie told me proudly that the space used to be a car park. This was no surprise. I met the fellow guests which is almost compulsory. One interesting Indian woman gave me lots of sea food that she had cooked which resulted in food poisoning and an interesting night vomiting. Leaving tomorrow thus became very unlikely.


my room Maggie’s homestay


entrance to Prachuap Khiri Khan


cafe with freshly baked layered cream cake and blue berry sauce


banana stop




Maggie's homestay Prachuap khiri Khan

Maggie’s homestay Prachuap khiri Khan


deal with the monkeys to get to the top

IMG_1110 IMG_1111 IMG_1113 IMG_1114 IMG_1115

Day 63 Phetchaburi to Hua hin

84km/5.5hrs. Tried to get on small roads and one person even drew a map for me but tricky with some many roads and kept ending up back at the motorway so after an hour gave up and cycled the hard shoulder of the motorway. Not so bad as got further out of town but not ideal.
The better route if one can find the roads is 3177-4033-4028.

Problem with weakness and lack of sensitivity in outside of right hand due to holding handle bars fro long periods of time in same position.

Took a detour to see beach in Chan Am but not too interesting.

Hua Hin is a middle aged holiday resort and packed full of tourists, restaurants and accommodation and is more expensive than most places in Thailand and of course generally less friendly. Tourists are milk cows and viewed as a group rather than individuals. The big chains are here such as Sheridon, Hilton and Intercontinental with golf and spars.

Kings House GH has some character due to Dutch owners furniture and carpets in rooms collected from places he lived around the world. Rooms from 500B. Under this for AC room not possible in Hua Hin. Owner likes to talk and bit of a bullshitter. Has a pool that the large owner likes to cool off in leaving some room for a couple of others.

Night market is geared to tourists even more than in other towns and not very interesting. Met some Filipino tourists and listened to a Filipino band that was not bad and on my request avoided some of the clique classics and sang some Queen although they did not attempt the the Pistols. Lots of sex tourism here with the usual rubbish.

Irish bar selling Shepherd’s pie but good band and an English teacher from Cardiff who was sure he could hear my Cardiff accent.

hotel in Phethchaburi

hotel in Phethchaburi


a bag from a pocket of trousers to hold CS Gas

a bag from a pocket of trousers to hold CS Gas

not an exciting road

not an exciting road

tempting but I didn't stop

tempting but I didn’t stop

strange. didn't know that archery was a Swiss tradition and I thought windmills had something to do with the Dutch

strange. didn’t know that archery was a Swiss tradition and I thought windmills had something to do with the Dutch


detour to the beach in Cham Nam

detour to the beach in Cham Nam


Little Venice. Hua Hin has everything. Not much is real though

Little Venice. Hua Hin has everything. Not much is real though


carpet on bedroom wall of Kings place GH

carpet on bedroom wall of Kings place GH

night market in Hua Hin

night market in Hua Hin


 But it is not! Micro brewery that does not have any beer. Staff found it funny also

But it is not! Micro brewery that does not have any beer. Staff found it funny also


zoom in. old white man chain smoking with a young girl with napkin over her mouth


usual girly bars

usual girly bars

fat old man kissing a young Thai girl. Real love

fat old man kissing a young Thai girl. Real love