Day 68 Somewhere to Champhon. Frustrating but ended well.

120km/9hrs. Flat and frustrating as got lost a lot trying to stay off the highway. Palm and rubber plantations. Bit hilly the second half of day just when one doesn’t want it.
Lot of dead ends but meant I discovered a number of beautiful beaches a secluded resorts.
Day started after 1km with a bloody puncture. Tire came off so could not even push it. Stopped and some men came out from a community party of some sort. They were looking for entertainment rather than the desire to help. Then prodded the inner tube and squeezed the tire and discussed the gears and generally got in the way. After fixing the puncture under the close scrutiny of the audience I was not able to pump up the tire. After a while of watching me dripping in sweat they got bored and wandered off. I then dismantled and greased the pump. Becoming a real mechanic. Then managed cycle to the nearest air pump with a very helpful and friendly woman and a disinterested man who seemed disturbed from his soap opera. A common occurrence. Woman working and man lounging.
Although delayed about an hour due to the puncture I still decided to get off the highway and get lost for another hour trying to find the route. When busy cycling north instead of south met Willy on a motorbike wearing an American Air Force uniform. It wasn’t his uniform but good for riding bikes but strange that the name and rank was still on the uniform. He speculated it was from Afghanistan. Did the owner loose it or are uniforms sold when a soldier dies? Willy had been in Vietnam which he considered as much of a mistake as future American wars. We discussed US foreign policy for a while and then he gave me poor directions and I got lost again. When eventually on the correct road and feeling good after a good lunch and thinking I only had 70km to go I went around a corner and saw a sign saying ‘Champhon 98km’. When on the highway hours earlier had only 85km to go. This was impossible and would have made 150km day so I resolved to cycle until 6pm and then try and find somewhere to change. As often happens my luck then changed. I think it was karma for living such an exemplary life. I found a new road that reduced the distance and then later a sign saying ‘Short cut to Champhon’ so I arrived before dark having cycled 30km less than feared and it didn’t rain.
When studying my town map German Ralf stopped and gave directions. He said, ‘Pity you did not arrive an hour earlier. We could have cycled up a mountain’. I suggested that after 120km I may not have been too enthusiastic.
Hotel Sri Champhon (440B) is conveniently on the road entering Champhon and  not bad. Friendly, although the room boy looked a bit shocked when I rode my bike into the hotel and up the corridor but he still waved friendlily.
Met Ralf later for a drink outside his friend’s shop. His friend is seriously sick and has no insurance and thanks  to the new 7/11 two doors away little business. He lay on a bed at the back of the shop looking very pale. Ralf had been in Thailand 20 years and speaks fluent Thai. Not the usual expat. He first came to Thailand as a student with his to be wife and they fell in love with it. Their son was born here and speaks without an accent. Ralf is fully integrated with no western contact and lots Thai friends. He makes money from buying and selling old bank notes which used to be a hobby. Lovely to meet someone who does not want to be here just for the women and cheap drink.




A pleasant dead end


another pleasant dead end. Many more and they would loose their appeal




Day 65 Hua Hin to Prachuap Kiri Khan. Rain and Vomiting.

96km/6hrs. As usual hard shoulder of flat boring road but better than western motorways as not separated from life of places passing through and can easily stop. Again could not find small roads which apparently do exist as an alternative to motorway. Didn’t want to spend an hour driving along a road to find it a dead-end and having to return the same way.
Started late as an Aussie gave me the ‘Top 100 Albums of all time’ to copy which took 1.5 hours. A Nepali works at the guest house and a Filipino is looking for work there. Salary is 9,000B/$300 a month with 6 days on and two off and 8 hour days. Seems that Thailand is at the stage economically when those from other countries are looking for work here.
Rained twice today. Could see the dark clouds looming and waiting. At the beginning the first down pour I ducked into a small cafe with friendly staff and good food. I tried to leave after the red curry but then they brought out a newly baked layered cream cake with blueberry sauce so I stayed a bit longer. Three solders sat for all this time on a table skimming through smart phone messages. When I left the rain had finished and I felt slightly noxious not knowing what was to come.
I tried to out run the darkening clouds but 1.5km before my destination the sky opened. If I hadn’t had that freshly baked layered cream cake I would have arrived before the storm. I tried riding through it but visibility became so bad that I couldn’t see the road properly and more seriously trucks would not be able to see me. I sheltered in a small closed restaurant and waited.
Maggie’s Homestay is the sort of place the guests run themselves to a great extent. The cheapest rooms (150B) are just a row of plywood rooms with netting on the top of walls for ventilation and a bed. Maggie told me proudly that the space used to be a car park. This was no surprise. I met the fellow guests which is almost compulsory. One interesting Indian woman gave me lots of sea food that she had cooked which resulted in food poisoning and an interesting night vomiting. Leaving tomorrow thus became very unlikely.


my room Maggie’s homestay


entrance to Prachuap Khiri Khan


cafe with freshly baked layered cream cake and blue berry sauce


banana stop




Maggie's homestay Prachuap khiri Khan

Maggie’s homestay Prachuap khiri Khan


deal with the monkeys to get to the top

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